A visit to Nishiki Ichiba market in Kyoto

I have been travelling to Japan for nearly 20 years. On the occasion of my first visit, motivated by the promotion of exceptional terroir products from France, I decided to explore several local markets such as Tsukiji, the seafood market in Tokyo with its famous tuna auction, as well as the adjacent fruit and vegetable market, the fresh produce markets in Osaka and Nagoya, or even Kōchi… And the surprising Nishiki Ichiba market in Kyoto.

Discovering Nishiki Ichiba

This market has watched over the lively lives of Kyotoites in search of excellence since 1615. A covered market, it stretches over nearly 400 metres along a covered street: "Nishiki-Dôri". The alley is narrow (6 or 7 metres) and is home to more than 120 shops.

The atmosphere is very special. The shopkeepers are very lively, engaging with passers-by and inviting them to discover a multitude of products from local crafts, fishing and agriculture. Wandering through the stalls, you will come across tourists from all over the world as well as from the rest of Japan. You will also rub shoulders with locals, women in traditional kimono, and pupils from neighbouring schools looking for a treat to nibble on.

What products can you find at Nishiki Ichiba?

Shops dedicated to seafood are very numerous. The fish and shellfish are fresh, beautifully displayed, sometimes served on plates ready to eat: fugu, horse mackerel, mackerel, loach, oysters, whale bacon, crabs, small octopuses presented toffee-apple style, sazae shellfish… A feast for the eyes and the palate. But be careful — do not touch, ask first, and with a bit of luck it may be possible to taste and judge the quality.

You will also find wild seaweed from all of Japan's coastlines, fresh or dried, an abundance of vegetables and woodland mushrooms, citrus fruits, aromatic plants and herbs, green teas and roasted teas, spices, condiments, crackers, pastries, extraordinary tsukudani (candied seaweed), mochi and other typical confections, locally produced poultry, cooking oils, alcohols (sake, umeshu, shochu, wines and other spirits), an impressive selection of tsukemono (pickled vegetables and roots) presented in their cedar wood packets…

But also, depending on the season, strawberries of impressive size, all identical, arranged to perfection in a box so beautiful you do not know whether to eat them or keep them. (I have sometimes spent up to 20,000 yen, over €150, just to understand the price being charged. The fruit is perfect in every way, but the price is high. But this is Kyoto, its special strawberries, the product that is given as a gift… And this is all part of the culture to be discovered.)

Ichigo strawberries for the affluent or as a thoughtful gift

In autumn, a stall grills chestnuts and the aromas drift over to caress your nostrils, compelling you to stop and buy and taste. The chestnuts are an extraordinary size (nearly twice the size of our large chestnuts) and are excellent. Other small workshops offer crackers, small skewers, soy confectionery, mochi coated in black sesame or kinako (roasted soy), fried foods, tofu…

You can also eat at small restaurants: soups, ramen, udon, rice. The kitchens are run by small, often elderly ladies, and the places exude the feel of good grandmother's cooking.