Vinegars

The Grocer's Tip: The Secret of Sushi Masters

To achieve perfect makis and nigiris, the choice of seasoning is just as crucial as the quality of the fish. Good sushi rice should have a beautiful sheen and a sticky texture without being stodgy. The role of the seasoning is to provide a subtle balance that enhances the briny flavour of the fish without masking it. Opt for a natural product offering a mild flavour and rich in amino acids. Purists will often turn to an Akasu (red vinegar) to recreate the authenticity of traditional Edo-style sushi, which will give the rice a beautiful copper hue.

The Japanese archipelago offers a vast diversity of vinegars, each suited to specific culinary uses and possessing its own aromatic identity.

• White vinegar: This is the most common variety (known as komezu). It is characterised by its pale colour, clarity, and delicate flavour. It integrates perfectly into preparations without altering their colour.
• Black rice vinegar (Kurozu): Made from unpolished whole rice and slowly fermented in earthenware jars exposed to the sun, it develops a dark colour and deep, almost roasted aromas.
• Red rice vinegar (Akasu): Historically used during the Edo period, it is not produced directly from rice grains but from aged sake lees. It offers exceptional aromatic intensity and an amber colour.
• Sushi vinegar (Awasezu): This is a ready-to-use blend. The base vinegar is already mixed with sugar, salt, and sometimes dashi (Japanese fundamental stock), specially measured to season rice.

Not all vinegars are equal. In Japan, the vast majority of production is now standardised, but a handful of artisans resist. Century-old houses such as Lio Jyozo (Kyoto Prefecture) or Tobaya Suten (founded in 1710) perpetuate a tradition of excellence.

Their secret lies in a slow static fermentation. Unlike industrial producers, these artisans first produce their own sake (nihonshu) of exceptional quality. They prepare their own rice malt (the koji, an essential natural ferment) and use between 120g and 320g of rice per litre, whereas industry uses only 40g. This process gives the rice vinegar an unprecedented concentration of umami (the fifth fundamental flavour, rich and savourful).

Quality criterion	Standard Industrial Vinegar	Artisan Vinegar (Nishikidori Selection)
Quantity of rice per litre	~ 40 grams	120 to 320 grams
Fermentation method	Accelerated (a few hours/days)	Traditional static (80 to 120 days)
Maturation	None or very brief	8 months to several years (barrels or jars)
Alcohol base	Added industrial alcohol	Home-brewed sake (pure rice)
Aromatic profile	Acidic, sharp, one-dimensional	Mild, complex, rich in umami

To experience this excellence, the celebrated Fujisu Premium Rice Vinegar from Lio Jyozo is a true benchmark, used by the greatest Michelin-starred chefs.

Beyond the preparation of seasoned rice, this exceptional product finds its way into many everyday recipes:

• Dressings: Combined with sesame oil and a dash of Japanese soy sauce, it elevates raw vegetable salads, shredded cabbage or wakame seaweed.
• Marinades: It tenderises meat remarkably well. It is the secret ingredient for marinating chicken before frying (karaage) or for preparing beef tataki.
• Sweet and sour sauces: It balances the sugar content of teriyaki sauce or nanbanzuke (marinated fried fish).
• Supplementary seasonings: A few drops are enough to liven up a broth, a miso soup or to deglaze a pan of seasonal vegetables.

This Japanese condiment stands out for its base (rice rather than grapes or apples), which gives it a characteristic mildness, a much less aggressive acidity, and subtly sweet notes — ideal for not overpowering the delicate flavours of food.

The shelf life is excellent. Thanks to its natural acidity, a high-quality product, even without preservatives, keeps for several years away from light and heat. Once opened, it is advisable to store it in a cool place or in the refrigerator to preserve its aromas.

If you do not have any, the best substitute is apple cider vinegar diluted with a small pinch of sugar, as its mild profile is the closest match. White alcohol vinegar or white wine vinegar are generally too acidic and bitter for Japanese cooking.

The average acidity level is generally between 4% and 5%, compared to 6% to 8% for Western wine vinegars. It is this mildness that allows it to be used generously in Japanese preparations.

Rice is naturally gluten-free. A pure product (Junmai) is therefore perfectly suited to gluten-free diets. However, be cautious with seasoned versions or certain black vinegars, which can sometimes include traces of wheat in their fermentation process.

Sake lees (kasu) are the nutrient-rich solid residue recovered after pressing sake. To make Akasu, these lees are aged for several years (up to 10 years) before being transformed into vinegar, which gives it its unique colour and depth of flavour.