Matsusaka is located within the Japanese Prefecture of Mie.
It is one of the most prestigious appellations for wagyu, rivalling the appellations "Kobe", "Ōmi" and "Yonezawa".
Discovering Matsusaka beef
My discovery of this exceptional animal took place at the Oo Zato Ise farm.
Oo Zato Ise farm
First surprise: there are no steers in the Matsusaka appellation — it is in fact exclusively heifers. The variety is kuroge washu, that is to say black-coated wagyu.
The farm I am visiting raises 224 head of cattle. The calves, purchased at auction from the prefectures of Miyazaki and Okinawa, arrive at the farm at the age of 9 to 10 months, with an average live weight of 290 kg.
The animals are fattened until the age of 30 to 32 months, with 30 months being the minimum required for a Matsusaka. The cattle are smaller, stockier, and reach an average live weight of 700 kg at slaughter for 400 kg of carcass. It is important to note that the Matsusaka wagyu association groups together 114 breeders for a total herd of 15,000 animals, of which 7,000 are slaughtered per year. The largest farm has 2,600 head.
Japanese Matsusaka beef farming
As for the farming method used for these animals, their welfare is the daily concern of the breeders. They are normally kept in individual pens offering a minimum of 12 m² of space.
For this first farm visited, the cattle are kept in collective pens. This is temporary. The explanation is that the buildings previously housed pigs. They have been renovated and adapted for wagyu farming, and the extension of open buildings was underway at the time of our visit.
The heifers will then be placed in individual pens of 12 m²
Several people will tell you that the animals enjoy daily massages with sake or shochu, drink beer, benefit from listening to classical music for optimal relaxation…
Urban legend about wagyu!
Wagyu were originally beasts of burden whose main function was the transport of people or goods, or working the land. When the animals, at the end of the 19th century, began to be raised for their meat, they were placed in stalls. Having left the green pastures, the animals became stressed and confinement reduced their appetite.
Breeders therefore added beer or sake to the animals' feed in order to stimulate their appetite, and massaged them to reduce stress. This worked and the legend was born. However, its influence on the marbling of the meat is nil.
This legend still persists for Matsusaka beef and Kobe beef. After questioning the association's representative, who was kindly dedicated to helping us discover this exceptional animal, I received confirmation that this was nothing more than a legend.
Nothing but water! And not sake or beer, as the legend would have you believe
The reality is that one of the Matsusaka breeders also owns a restaurant specialising in sukiyaki, located on his farm and very popular. Beer is a much-appreciated drink during a sukiyaki tasting, and the customers of this restaurant have taken to giving the farm's cattle the dregs of their bottles to drink at the end of the meal.
Now, imagine the incredible quantity of beer that would need to be stored to quench the thirst of an average of 100 cattle per farm, and the army of masseurs and masseuses needed to pamper them! With a little common sense, the legends fall apart.
Discovering the Okada San farm
Let us continue our exploration of Matsusaka beef in the town of Taiki Cho, with a visit to Okada San. The farm is more modest and has 100 head of cattle. The feel is more rustic, more artisanal, more rural, more authentic. Okada San is a distinctive breeder: he exclusively purchases Tajima-breed calves from within Hyogo Prefecture, the birthplace of the famous Kobe beef.
Matsusaka beef from the Okada San farm
Imagine — his finest Matsusaka heifers fetch record sums at auction, from 20 million to 34 million yen, that is from €170,000 to €280,000 per heifer! These price levels are explained by the pedigree of the calves, exclusively 100% pure Tajima breed, whose ancestors have always been prize-winning. The calves arrive with him at the age of 10 months, weighing 220 to 230 kg live. They will be slaughtered at 34 or even 36 months for an average live weight of 670–680 kg and 380–400 kg of carcass. I therefore note that the animals selected for Matsusaka beef are slow-growing breeds.
It is easy to appreciate the quality of these animals, the care given and the expertise of the breeder.
Okada San takes great care of his animals
80% of the animals are graded A4 and A5 at slaughter.
Okada San also tells me that it is very important to house only one animal per fattening pen. This avoids conflicts between the animals and allows the breeder to better monitor the animal's appetite, health and any stress it may experience.
We leave the Okada San farm and, to allow us to better appreciate the beauty of his wagyu, he kindly brings one of his heifers outside for us to see her silhouette. A little grooming and massage session for the beauty, and the pleasure of being in contact with the animal for this farmer's grandson that I am.
Visit to the Yamaguchi San farm
Last visit, still in Taiki Cho, at Yamaguchi San's. A farm nestled between forests and rice paddies with around 73 heifers originating from:
from Iwate (slaughtered at 31–32 months, 680 kg live weight, 435 kg carcass),
from Hyogo (slaughtered at 32–36 months, live weight of 630–650 kg and carcass of 400 kg),
and from Gifu (slaughtered at 31–32 months, 660–670 kg live weight, 410–420 kg carcass).
Olivier Derenne and Mr Yamaguchi San
Mr Yamaguchi prepares the feed blends for his heifers himself. A base mix very rich in proteins and cereals, rice straw (100% Japanese), soya beans, rice bran… The recipe will remain a secret. And this seems to work very well, as 100% of the animals achieve an A4 (60%) or A5 (40%) grading.
Rationing of rice straw for Matsusaka cattle
Tasting of Matsusaka beef
All that remains is to taste the famous Matsusaka beef!
To do so, we headed to the most renowned restaurant in Matsusaka, Matsujuu, specialising in sukiyaki. A tasting organised by Koda San, an authority in the world of wagyu as the largest buyer and trader of Matsusaka beef. It is worth noting that the meat is cooked in a blend of soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar, dashi… A true delight!
At Nishikidôri we offer you quality Wagyu throughout the year — contact our team on: +33 (0)2 40 83 33 99 or contact@nishikidori.com
