SHOCHU
What is Japanese shochu?
There are two main types of shōchū:
1. Honkaku
This authentic Shōchū, distilled only once, offers very rich aromas and flavour notes.
The alcohol content of honkaku shōchū is generally 30 to 45%, which is higher than sake, so these drinks are usually diluted with hot or cold water, or even tea.
Only spirits made from grains or tubers, koji (saccharifying agent) made from the main ingredient and water that has been fermented and distilled (rice shōchū, barley shōchū, sweet potato shōchū) may bear the honkaku shōchū appellation.
Served warm and diluted by half, the aromatic notes are powerful and the palate is then smoother and more appealing. It is recommended to pour the warm liquid first and then add the shōchū so as to preserve all the aromas.
Purists will recommend drinking it neat or on the rocks.
2. Korui
Distilled multiple times, featuring a lighter aroma and flavour, with an alcohol content below 36%.
Shōchū is sulphite-free and carbohydrate-free, but it remains a strong spirit.
Characteristics of honkaku shōchū
It is very important to protect the moromi from bacteria during the alcohol production process. This is why black and white koji moulds are used in the production of Honkaku Shōchū, generating a good amount of citric acid, which makes the moromi strongly acidic. In this way, bacterial growth is controlled and the moromi is protected from its effects. The true origins of the various types of spirits found around the world have never been fully established, but it is said that a single-distillation still called a "alembic" was developed in the Arab world during the 5th century and spread both east and west. Some spirits were produced in Asia in the 13th or 14th century. In Japan, it is generally believed that distillation technology was brought from Siam (present-day Thailand) to the Kingdom of Ryukyu (present-day Okinawa), which actively traded with Southeast Asian countries in the 15th century. However, there is no widely accepted theory as to how shōchū production technology reached Kyushu, although some have suggested Ryukyu, Korea, China and Europe.
The main ingredients of honkaku shōchū are starch-rich foods such as rice, barley and sweet potatoes. Koji is always used in the production of honkaku shōchū in order to break down the starches contained in the main ingredients into sugar. Whilst yeast can produce alcohol by digesting sugars through the fermentation process, yeast itself does not have the ability to break down starches. If only starches were used, it would be impossible to cultivate yeast or to ferment the starches to produce alcohol. Therefore, during the production of honkaku shōchū, black or white koji mould is sprinkled over steamed rice or barley to allow the koji to develop for approximately two days. The koji contains enzymes that can break down starches into sugar, and the yeast with the koji goes through the fermentation process to produce alcohol.
In the first shikomi (tank mixing), carried out mainly to cultivate yeast, approximately the same amount of koji and water is added to a fermentation tank to grow the yeast for about one week, then to form the first moromi (fermentation mash). In the second shikomi, the main ingredient, such as rice, barley or sweet potatoes, and water are added to the first moromi to break down the starches with the enzymes contained in the koji and ferment with the yeast to produce alcohol. The variety of Honkaku shōchū is determined according to the main ingredient added in the second shikomi process (rice shōchū, barley shōchū, sweet potato shōchū, etc.), which takes one to two weeks depending on the main ingredient. The alcohol content of the second moromi at this stage is approximately 14 to 20%. The second moromi mash is then transferred to pot stills for the distillation process.
The alcohol content of the moromi for shōchū is higher than that of other spirits, making it possible to produce a high-alcohol product after a single distillation process. As a result, a number of volatile compounds, including alcohol, are retained to preserve the richness of the aroma and flavour of the ingredients. The final product, honkaku shōchū, is stored and matured, with the alcohol level adjusted by the addition of water before bottling and shipping.
Shōchū rarely conflicts with the flavours of food. On the contrary, some unpleasant tastes in food, such as oils and fats, are washed away by the refreshing flavour of Honkaku shōchū, often making dishes more flavoursome.
The types of shochu distillation
Honkaku shōchū or awamori producers use two different single-distillation methods: atmospheric distillation and vacuum distillation. In the atmospheric distillation method, as the pressure inside the still is 1 atm, the same as the external atmospheric pressure, the temperature of the moromi mash rises to approximately 85–95°C. Shōchū moromi is strongly acidic, so when heated to a high temperature, the substances it contains undergo certain chemical reactions, resulting in the generation of new volatile compounds and creating a rich aroma. By contrast, in the vacuum distillation method, the pressure inside the still is reduced to allow the temperature of the moromi to rise to only 45–55°C. As a result, the chemical reactions are not as pronounced as in the other method, creating a light and subtle flavour in the final product. In many distilleries, a variety of flavours is created by using both types of still.
Rice shōchū – kome shōchū
Kume shōchū is produced throughout Japan, with one of the oldest production areas being the Kuma region (towns of Kumagun and Hitoyoshi, Kumamoto Prefecture). The geographical indication "kuma shōchū" is protected by the WTO TRIPS Agreement on intellectual property.
In this region, the Kuma River flows through a plateau surrounded by mountains, and rice has been cultivated there since the Kamakura period in the 13th century. It is not known exactly when kome shōchū production actually began in this region, but there are still nearly 30 distilleries along the river. To produce kome shōchū, rice koji is used in the first shikomi process, and steamed rice and water are added for fermentation in the second shikomi. Yellow koji mould, generally used for sake production, was primarily employed in the development of koji for kome shōchū until the early 20th century. However, white koji mould is now widely used, and black and yellow koji moulds have also become popular among those seeking richer and more distinctive aromas and flavours. Typically, kome shōchū is stored and matured for approximately six months after distillation and before shipping. During this period, the flavour loses some of its sharpness and the aroma settles. Kome shōchū, made from a Japanese staple food, has an appealing aroma that enhances the flavour of food. There are a number of varieties of kome shōchū, including one with a richer flavour obtained through atmospheric distillation, one with a subtle aroma and light flavour obtained through vacuum distillation, and one with a distinctive flavour obtained through maturation in earthenware jars or barrels. The richer type is generally enjoyed with hot water and the more subtle and lighter types with ice. In general, kome shochu contains approximately 25% alcohol. The stronger type is more commonly enjoyed in the Kuma region, where it is customary to heat pure kome shōchū in a vessel called a "gara" and drink it from a small cup called a "choku".
Barley shōchū – mugi shōchū
There are two large islands off Kyushu: Iki and Tsushima, which appear in the Gishiwajinden, a Chinese text written in the third century, as part of a primary transport route between Japan and the Asian continent.
Whilst Tsushima has steep mountains and deep forests, Iki is fairly flat and has the second largest plain in Nagasaki Prefecture. As a result, Iki is ideal for growing cereals and fruit, and is also known for its quality beef and the fresh seafood of the Genkai-nada Sea. Furthermore, it is here, on Iki, that barley shōchū was born. Iki barley shōchū is made with rice koji and steamed barley, which differs from barley shōchū produced in other regions. Indeed, the ratio of rice koji to steamed barley is 1:2, which has remained constant since the Meiji era, over a century ago.
In terms of production, the first shikomi process is carried out with rice koji cultivated from white koji mould, with steamed barley added for fermentation at the second and third shikomi stages.
Traditionally, it is produced by the atmospheric distillation method, but some barley shōchū is made by the vacuum distillation method. Each distillery on the island has its own way of producing its shōchū, such as using jars for the shikomi or oak barrels for storage. The traditional Iki barley shōchū has a roasted barley aroma, which is more reminiscent of chocolate-covered barley, owing to the atmospheric distillation method. In this method, the starches contained in the barley undergo hydrolysis to produce sugar, and the sugar combined with amino acids is heated to generate the sweet, roasted aroma. It also has a rich flavour brought by the rice koji, which comes through when combined and drunk with hot water.
The name "iki shōchū" is protected by the WTO TRIPS Agreement on intellectual property. By contrast, barley shōchū produced in other regions, such as Oita Prefecture, is generally made with barley koji and steamed barley. The first shikomi is carried out with water and barley koji, which is cultivated with steamed barley and white koji mould, followed by the second shikomi in which steamed barley and water are added for fermentation. Produced by the vacuum distillation method, most varieties are of a light and fruity quality. As they are generally pale in colour, they are best enjoyed with cold water or on the rocks. They also make an excellent base for cocktails.
Sweet potato shochu – Imo shōchū
Imo shōchū, sweet potato shochu, is produced throughout Kyushu, but particularly in Kagoshima Prefecture and in the south of Miyazaki Prefecture, as its main ingredient, the sweet potato, is a characteristic product of these regions. Generally, koji, water and yeast are used in the first shikomi stage to cultivate sufficient yeast, and water and steamed sweet potato pieces are added in the second shikomi stage for fermentation, followed by distillation. The reason there are two shikomi stages is that fermentation proceeds smoothly even when the scale of the shikomi is large.
Before this method began, around the early 20th century, koji, sweet potatoes and water were combined at the same time. This method is called "Donburi (large bowl) Shikomi" and some distilleries have recently begun using it based on records from that era. Although sweet potatoes are generally steamed before the shikomi, some distilleries bake them in the oven to obtain a distinctive flavour that is both sweet and savoury.
Recently, a wide variety of sweet potatoes and koji has been used for Imo shōchū. Here are some examples: Kogane-Sengan: This is the most widely used variety as the main ingredient of Imo shōchū, with its yellowish-white flesh. The shōchū produced has a sweet and rich flavour characteristic of steamed sweet potatoes.
- Purple variety: Yamakawa Murasaki and Ayamurasaki are well-known varieties. Their flesh is purple and contains pigments called anthocyanins. The flavour of this shōchū is reminiscent of red wine and yoghurt.
- Orange variety: The shōchū made with this orange-fleshed variety has a flavour quite close to that of boiled carrots and pumpkins, as well as tropical fruits such as papaya. The orange colour comes from beta-carotene, which lends a certain unique aroma to the product.
The black koji mould: This mould, which was previously used for Okinawa Awamori, began to be used in the production of Imo Shōchū at the beginning of the 20th century. It is thought to help bring out the rich, deep flavour of sweet potatoes.
The white koji mould: This is actually a mutant strain of the black koji mould. Due to its black spores, the black koji mould tends to stain work areas, equipment and clothing, so this white version became popular and spread throughout the Kyushu region after the war. Shōchū made with this mould has a slightly softer and lighter flavour than that made with the black type. Although it is delicious with cold water or on the rocks, the sweet and relaxing flavour characteristic of Imo Shōchū is often enjoyed with hot water, as the distinctive aroma and sweet taste of the drink are enhanced by the warmth.
When shōchū with an alcohol content of 25% is diluted with water in a ratio of six parts shōchū to four parts water, the alcohol content drops to nearly that of sake. The ratio is easily adjustable by changing the amount of hot water added according to your mood. It is best to pour the hot water first and let it cool slightly before gently adding the shōchū, so that they blend well and the subtle sweetness comes through perfectly.
In Kagoshima, however, there is another way to enjoy Imo shōchū, which involves placing the shōchū and cold water in a black pot called a "Kuro Joka" and warming it over a direct flame. This custom is called "Dareyame" or "Daiyame", which originally means "stopping fatigue". Imo shōchū produced in Kagoshima Prefecture is called "Satsuma shōchū" and this geographical indication is protected by the WTO TRIPS Agreement on intellectual property.
Imo shōchū is also produced on the Izu Islands of Tokyo, and the inhabitants of these islands call it "Shimazake", or island liqueur. Although its production method is said to originate from Kagoshima, Shimazake is made with barley koji rather than the rice koji used in Kagoshima, and offers an excellent combination of the sweet flavour of sweet potatoes and the light, savoury flavour of barley.
Black sugar shōchū – kokuto shōchū
Kokuto shōchū, black sugar shochu, has the subtle, sweet aroma of black sugar and is produced exclusively on the Amami Islands of Kagoshima Prefecture. According to the Liquor Tax Act, these islands (administered by the Oshima tax office) are the only place authorised to produce this shōchū made from brown sugar and rice koji.
Currently, there are distilleries on the islands of Amami, Kikaijima, Tokunoshima, Okinoerabujima and Yoronto. Although sugar is present, Kokuto shōchū also uses rice koji, which provides the amino acids, vitamins and fatty acids that yeast needs to thrive. The citric acids contained in the koji also maintain the acidity of the moromi. Furthermore, the amino acids contribute to the aroma of the alcohol and the high-quality ester, and the rice koji improves the fermentation process, giving the product a richer flavour.
Generally, the first shikomi for Kokuto shōchū uses rice koji cultivated with white koji mould to develop the first moromi mash, and brown sugar is added during the second shikomi. Brown sugar is not produced directly from the white pressed juice of the sugar cane, but is obtained after the juice has been simmered, concentrated and solidified.
The solidified brown sugar is dissolved with water and steam, and the liquid is cooled for use in the second shikomi. The brown moromi mash with its sweet smell looks appetising, but actually has quite a sour and unsweetened taste, as it is in its pre-distillation state.
The aroma of black sugar shōchū has a distinctive sweetness typical of brown sugar, and is slightly acidic with a hint of coconut oil. Its flavour is subtle and it is probably most enjoyable when diluted with cold water rather than hot water. The Amami Oshima branch of the Kagoshima Prefecture Sake and Shōchū Manufacturers Association has designated 9 and 10 May as "Amami Kokuto Shōchū Day", as this shōchū represents the rich natural environment and long tradition of the Amami region.
Sake lees shōchū – Sakekasu shōchū
Shōchū sakekasu is made from sake lees, that is, what remains after sake has been pressed out of the moromi mash. It has long been used for various purposes, including as an ingredient in beverages and as an antiseptic. It has also been used as Hashira shōchū, a supporting alcohol for sake production, which is added to the moromi before pressing in order to raise the alcohol level for better preservation.
In some regions, the alcohol-free residue obtained after distillation is used as fertiliser for rice cultivation, and sakekasu shōchū is therefore often drunk on special occasions related to rice cultivation. This includes ritual events at shrines and Sanabori festivals celebrating the end of the harvest ("Sanaburi shōchū").
These are based on the philosophy that rice is used without waste (rice as a staple food, as an ingredient in sake, sake lees and shōchū, as well as recycling the residue after distillation to be used as fertiliser for rice cultivation the following year).
Two methods are used in the production of Sakekasu shōchū: Kasutori and Kasumoromitori.
Sake lees contain remnants of yeast and rice, as well as approximately 8% alcohol, which are re-fermented to raise the alcohol content a little further before distillation.
Kasutori:
In this traditional method, sake lees are added to a small amount of water and fermented for approximately one month with the help of the yeast contained in the lees, then distilled in steam vessels. The fermented sake lees are mixed with rice bran and distributed into the vessels to ensure good exposure to the steam. This steam, which contains a good amount of alcohol, is then cooled to become shōchū.
As rice bran is mixed in before distillation, Kasutori shōchū has a complex, sweet and savoury flavour derived from the sake lees, rice husks and dry grass. The type distilled in a wooden vessel also has a subtle woody aroma. As these distinctive aromas and flavours are very strong just after distillation, the shōchū is stored for a period of time to allow for settling. The most popular way to enjoy Kasutori shōchū is to drink it chilled or on the rocks, and it can also be used as a base for making plum liqueur.
Kasumoromitori:
In this method, sake lees and water are mixed until a mash is obtained, fermented for two weeks, then distilled by either the atmospheric or vacuum distillation method. Sake lees are sometimes used as ingredients for the second shikomi.
In general, Kasumoromi shōchū is slightly smoother than Kasutori shōchū in terms of aroma and flavour. A new variety of Sakekasu shōchū is made from finely ground lees from high-quality sake, using the vacuum distillation method. It has a sophisticated flavour similar to that of high-quality sake. It is excellent both chilled and on the rocks.
The Controlled Designations of Origin (AOC)
The WTO, based on the concept of "terroir" or unique traditional regional qualities, has granted Controlled Designation of Origin certification to three categories of shōchū:
- Iki shōchū,
- Kuma shōchū
- Satsuma shōchū
Source: Japan Sake and Shōchū Maker Association
